Wherever you go, that is where you are. Entering any place a vessel and her crew quickly become part of the scene. Jupiter arrives at an anchorage or settlement, and every nearby creature and person sees or senses this, and all become curious: welcoming or defensive. The boat displaces her weight in water and her presence changes everything and nothing.

Nuchatlitz: Beauty

Arriving at Nuchatlitz Harbour during surprisingly calm and sunny weather, Jupiter deploys anchor and chain to establish a temporary outpost within the ancient world of the Nuu-chah-nulth People. Known for their strong connection to the sea, they once inhabited a thriving summer village along this shore.

From our glassy anchorage we see Pacific waves breaking their backs on enough rocks and reefs to offer calm waters to well-positioned visitors. At low tide vast swaths of wild coastline invite exploration. We don boots and launch kayaks for an extended littoral trek.

Wildflowers are rampant along shorelines in May.

Tidal pools are full of life.

Esperanza Mission: Love

Plying inside passages northwestward, Jupiter calls at Esperanza Mission, a former hospital outpost now operated as a Christian mission funded in part by pumping diesel. The float is half the length needed by Jupiter, but deep water, calm conditions and a generous fuel hose allow for a creative tie-up long enough to take in 1,200 liters of fuel, a tour of the orderly facilities, and a wide-ranging discourse with the gentle missionaries.

Esperanza, a name given by Spanish explorers, obscures the indigenous name of Tlay-Maak-Su, which refers to a place of preparation of sack-fermented fish roe. The delicacy is described as both delicious and disgusting, or deadly if poorly proofed.

The mission, currently managed by Rick and Diane, has been many things to many people: a canoe stopover, settlement, hospital, drug addiction center, family retreat, and children’s summer camp. The campus is immaculately maintained and an interesting place to understand West Coast history and human nature. Mutual regard between the missionaries and the Nuu-Chah-Nulth is evident, and a bridge of trust spans the chasm between two cultures.

Rick, fluent in the the local dialect after ten years of listening to truths and legends, tells us there is often not enough common experience to allow for direct translation.

Kyuquot: Harmony

Further along our route, Jupiter investigates moorage possibilities at the public dock within the marvelously protected harbor of Kyuquot, sometimes called Walters Cove. We find 170 feet of float entirely empty and tether to the outside end.

The crew enjoys stretching their legs along the boardwalks and footpaths, and interactions with curious locals.

Kyuquot is a picturesque cove and home to bands of the Nuu-chah-nulth People on one side, and Anglo settlers’ cottages, fishing lodges, a general store/post office on the other. All facilities are closed except for the post office which operates on an infrequent schedule. Waves of drumming and singing sometimes float across the harbor.

Friendly villagers from both sides of the cove share the benefits and hardships of remote living.

Kyuquot villagers carrying a new power pole to their skiff call themselves a “First Nation Forklift”.
Local fishing friends Steve and Luke gift excess catch-of-the-day to Jupiter’s galley.

The weekly barge, cozies up to Jupiter, and will pickup and deliver anything.

People from both cultures are warm, welcoming, curious and communicative, and delighted to have visitors. There is much excitement around the harbor when the weekly barge arrives from Gold Harbour, far inland and connected by road. Seaplanes arrive occasionally carrying visitors and cargos.