The Devil’s Egg Triangle

Moving north beyond the 50th parallel we have reached The Broughtons, a maze of small islands and islets that roughly form a triangle, hard-edged by the Straits of Johnstone and Queen Charlotte, both known for their challenging wind against tide conditions.  Tucking into the islands however, cruisers find thousands of coves and inlets that provide protection.  The waters are often too deep for anchoring, but rustic marinas offer shelter.

Popular Lagoon Cove Marina where the owner hails from St. Louis
Forest Fog hangs over Kwatsi Bay Marina before, during and after rain

The further one travels into the archipelago the more isolated each small marina becomes.  They cling tenaciously to a hewn edge of the rocky shore where logging camps once operated, accessible only via the web of waterways that serve as roads hereabouts.  Their owners, many with small families, are creative, tough, and unfazed by harsh weather or their isolation with its attendant privations.  They see this slow-paced existence in fiercely beautiful surroundings as a reasonable trade for the ease of urban living.

  • What they don’t have: grocery stores, restaurants, repair facilities, laundries, bath-houses, cellular service, road access.
  • What they might have: fuel, internet, hiking trails with threat of bears, the ability to take payment.
  • What they do have: docks, often built on colossal mossbacked floating cedar logs attached to the shore and each other with rusting chains, and the essential gathering spaces.

Gathering Spaces.  At their most basic a corrugated roof provides shelter for camaraderie in this remote, wet, rainforest.  In gathering spaces large or small the proprietors host a happy hour pot-luck every day at 5 o’clock.  Each boat on the float is invited to bring a dish to share.  One is to arrive promptly, drink in hand, with plate, fork and napkin.  Don’t be shy.  The variety and complexity of the dishes is impressive.  Local fish and shellfish are well represented, along with immense meatballs on tiny sticks, ubiquitous deviled eggs, and myriad interpretations of cream-cheese.  Fruits and vegetables rarely make an appearance.   This smorgasbord serves as dinner, night after night, for the hungry homesteaders.  Boaters who have been absent company beyond the confines of their vessels, gobble it up.  Pleasantries and boat calling cards are exchanged, anchorages and marinas condemned or recommended, bear and whale sightings reported, and new friends are made!

Broughtons Spiked Baked Brie:

Source a locally made ripe brie.  Slice off the top rind horizontally and scoop out a shallow indentation in the soft cheese below.  Pat a layer of brown sugar onto the cheese, sprinkle liberally with chopped walnuts and drizzle with brandy, whiskey or rum.  Bake in a warm oven until the cheese is soft and bubbly but before it breaks through the remaining rind wall.  Serve with sliced apple or pear and melba toasts.

4 comments

  1. Paula says:

    Brie & bourbon! What more could one possibly need.

    On second thought, add Amazon Prime delivery to the list.

  2. TheoAugusta says:

    Thank you team Jupiter. We LOVE reading all of this. Looking forward to following your blog.
    Miss you!

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