Footloose in Chemainus

Voyaging in southern British Columbia affords many pleasures, the greatest of which is visiting small coastal towns. Jupiter calls at many waterfronts, spontaneously finding a lucky sixty feet of space on a public float or calling ahead to reserve parking.

Robert the wharfinger has been xeroxing this artful moorage layout for as long as we have been visiting. NOTE: Please do not share WiFi password.

A recent visit to Chemainus, pronounced CHE-MAIN-US, on the southern coast of Vancouver Island, involves an email to Robert, the obliging Wharfinger, who confirms more space than required on the Saturday requested. The date is important because Jupiter’s Crew boasts tickets to the sold-out Chemainus Theatre Festival production of Footloose, held over for weeks owing to panegyrical reviews.

Seaside approaches to the port prove its historical connection to logging, and a working sawmill still dominates the waterfront. The town however is otherwise overseen by its lovely historical murals, and residents occupied and preoccupied with fine arts and handcrafts. Shops are chock-a-block with pottery, stained glass, paintings and photos; clothing sewn, felted, woven and dyed; fuzzy stuffings of creatures from land and sea, and carvings in wood of every imaginable furnishing, instrument, implement and toy.

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Within one of the Coast Sailish languages lies the origin of the name Chemainus, meaning bitten breast or broken chest, recalling the shaman prophet, Tsa-neeum-is, who survived a severe thoracic wound and was made Chief.

In 1958 a towering Douglas Fir was felled to create the world’s tallest flagpole at Kew Gardens in London. After a 8,829-mile journey from Chemainus to the River Thames the pole was gifted by the Province of British Columbia to the Royal Botanical Gardens to celebrate the garden’s bicentenary and British Columbia’s centenary.

Cafés and bakeries are abundant and occupied, serving coffees, chocolates and teas, pastes and pastries, biscuits and puffs with nuts and fresh local berries rolled up savory or sweet, fancy or plain, and fresh bread in every texture, size and grain. All these come loafed, sliced, bagged or boxed, fresh from the oven. What we cannot eat onshore we carry aboard by the dozen.

This water-wheel mural in the town park represents the original source of power for the lumber mill around which the town developed. At the mill’s closing in 1983 Chemainus slumped until a local resident had the idea to install murals on buildings throughout the town, each depicting a piece of the town’s history.

In 1874 Billy Thomas was the first male child of European ancestry born in the Chemainus valley. He lived here all of his 102 years.

Great professional theater on Vancouver Island has found a home at Chemainus’ temple-like theater designed with a proscenium stage, precipitous stadium seating, a fine restaurant and bar for pre-show indulgences and, naturally, a gift shop abundant with the industry of local crafters.

Footloose, the prevailing production, is an evening of don’t stop singing and dancing that revives the 80’s times and tempos, keeping the audience clapping, stomping and cheerier than a sunny afternoon strolling the entrepôt.

Bravo to the producers, cast and community who’s affabrous energies recreate Chemainus into a destination that wins every accolade for craft, confectionery, camaraderie, and Canadian cordiality.