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bears

VERIFY

Whales are Jupiter’s fellow travelers, but bears belong to the shadowy shores, the arboreal lands more imagined than manifested. At every anchorage we wear our watery eyes attempting to find a bear in a salt meadow or along a beach at low tide.

Recently, we set boots ashore at Hidden Falls salmon hatchery on Baranof Island where rows of large circular tanks are filled with tiny larva, alevin, fry and fingerlings swimming laps until large enough to be discharged, caught and eaten.

The nearby release site is patrolled by hungry Brown Bear sows and their cubs. A sign warns that bears are habituated to salmon, not humans.

Blacks and Browns

In spring and early summer, Black Bears, Ursus americanus, and Brown Bears (Grizzlies), Ursus arctos, are chomping on shoreside sedges, roots and plants, or turning rocks hunting crustaceans. From Jupiter offshore, onshore stumps and boulders are foolishly mistaken for bears. Real bears reveal themselves to vigilant voyeurs by being in peckish perpetual motion.

Other than a sow with cubs, bears are loners and avoid other bears, and blacks and browns rarely mix. They can, and will, kill and eat each other and their own offspring.

Bears are strong swimmers and are seen crossing deep channels during their edacious quests. Later in summer bears follow the salmon runs and are feeding at creek estuaries where their actions appear staged for a nature film.

Being Bear Aware

Like local residents of British Columbia and Alaska, Jupiter’s crew is wary of bear encounters. When beachcombing or trail hiking the prudent mariner carries noise making devices, canned bear spray, a flare gun, a shotgun or a large-bore handgun. We never walk alone and are cautious where we step ashore.

When walking we group together and send forth a continuous stream of meaningless chatter which goes something like this: “Hello, Bear Bear – hey there, Mr. Bear – here we come Bear Bear – we don’t want to surprise you Mr. Bear – we don’t want you to smash in our heads, tear off our arms, claw out our guts and eat us, Mr Bear.”

No one knows why it’s always “Mr Bear” when the missus is the more clear and present danger.

Brown Bears are said to be more combative than Black Bears, and are generally taller, heavier, broader, and shaggier. Sows with cubs are extremely problematic, and it is said that a person has three seconds to take decisive action against an agitated charging bear.

Bears are amphibious and appear equally comfortable crossing land or sea.

Beauty of the Beasts

Bears are compellingly beautiful, athletic and powerful. They are the august aristocracy of the temperate rainforest, and their hunger sustains a vital symbiotic relationship with the woodlands. Simply being in the presence of a bear enervates and exhilarates the human condition.

Bears are fascinating to observe but difficult to photograph by being frustratingly far yet disturbingly near at the same moment.

Some Yum Soup

A happy synchronicity of local ingredients inspires this quick and comforting soup. A dock-mate proffers fresh caught halibut, a dockside market offers mushrooms from Smithers, B.C., and pea shoots are at peak season in Jupiter’s onboard micro-green garden.

In a small bowl mix together puddles of soy sauce, chili-garlic sauce, and squeeze in the juice of a lime. Coax fish or vegetable stock to a simmer in a pan and add any exotic flavorings such as bonito seasoning, sliced ginger root or lemongrass. Pour boiling water over mung-bean vermicelli in a larger bowl to soften.

Slice mushrooms and a handful of cherry tomatoes and toss into the broth, simmering for five minutes until tomatoes begin to soften. Stir in the soy-chili mixture. Cube fresh fish with a sharp knife and slide into the soup. Stir gently. Cook for a few minutes until fish is opaque then add a can of coconut milk and stir until smooth, aromatic and creamy.

Drain noodles and divide into warm bowls, and ladle the soup overtop. Garnish with a tangle of pea greens and serve with lime wedges.