![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/IMG_0029-1.jpeg?resize=740%2C987&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/Large_Intestine_PowerPoint_Diagram.jpeg?resize=395%2C527&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/IMG_0030-1.jpeg?resize=740%2C985&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nLeaving alimentary school musings behind, Team Jupiter follows Vancouver’s progress 228 years later and, along the way, surveys objects both dangerous and delicious.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW05936.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nPassing under the high western span of the Hood Canal floating bridge Jupiter makes easy way until confronted with Naval Base Kitsap Bangor, the largest nuclear submarine base on the west coast. Yellow markers for the exclusion zone buffering the service yards warn us to give this place a wide berth. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02235.jpeg?resize=740%2C529&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02171.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThree trident ballistic missile subs<\/a> are in port. These “boomers”, in onomatopoeic naval jargon, are accompanied at dock by support vessels. Unleashed in the water are small, armed guard-boats shuttling impatiently inside the floating perimeter like vicious dogs. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
A billboard, large enough to read at a remarkable distance announces…<\/p>\n\n\n\n
WARNING
U.S. NAVY RESTRICTED AREA
KEEP OUT
USE OF FORCE AUTHORIZED<\/strong><\/span> <\/p><\/blockquote>\n\n\n\nOur binoculars are burning into a military drama more fantastical than fiction. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02219.jpeg?resize=740%2C529&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02182.jpeg?resize=740%2C529&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02229.jpeg?resize=740%2C416&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe fairwater planes<\/a> are the first visual evidence that a submarine lies nearby. These behemoth Ohio Class<\/a> nuclear fueled ships are 560′ in length and carry a crew of 150 for tours of up to three months. Each has two rotating crews and is capable of carrying twenty-four ballistic or cruise missiles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Leaving the Navy in our wake, the southern reaches of the Hood offer us tranquility, and we relish two quiet days ashore at Alderbrook Resort in the Skokomish Valley. We trek miles on trails and bathe in the ancient forests.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW05972.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nSleep is deep and pacific moored to Alderbrook’s generous dock, free from cold-war threats. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW05948.jpeg?resize=740%2C416&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Hood Canal is an epicenter of bivalve aquaculture, and as we navigate its length we pass manifold floating oyster farms and tidal clam beds.
Having previously relished the lush oysters of Quilcene Bay, we determined to visit the source while heading north. The inlet lies adjunct to Dabob Bay, another dynamic naval operations area just a 30mm gunshot from the Kitsap sub base. <\/p>\n\n\n\nAs we round into Dabob, yellow lights flash ashore, and red lights on Naval ships. Exercises are clearly underway. Hailing Naval Range Control on the VHF, we are authorized passage hard on the western shore, and thanked for our communication. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02199.jpeg?resize=740%2C529&ssl=1\")
<\/a>Torpedo Trials underway in Dabob Bay<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02206.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/a>Triploid oyster germination underway in Quilcene Bay<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul> Our anchorage in Quilcene Bay enjoys a fine view of the Olympic Mountains and the Coast Seafoods<\/a> oyster hatchery operating around the clock.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n Beyond the Hood Canal Bridge we pass our trinity of previous ports of call. Abreast the west side of intriguing Naval Magazine Indian Island<\/a>, the logistics backbone of the Pacific Navy fleet, we are again in military domain. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here, southbound martial vessels are required to check their armaments at the door to Puget Sound before proceeding into the populous environs of Bremerton and Seattle. Here, northbound, is where they are re-armed, fueled and provisioned before dispatch on patrols. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
At the wharf where nuclear war-heads and other munitions are transferred, we photograph the nimble attack submarine, USS Seawolf<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02254.jpeg?resize=740%2C529&ssl=1\")
<\/a>Attack Submarine, Sea Wolf (SSN-21), is loading or offloading ordinance.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li> ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02259.jpeg?resize=740%2C416&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/IMG_0287.jpeg?resize=615%2C1024&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\nSoon we enter enigmatic Kilisut Harbor through its shallow circuitous entrance. This lake-like haven lies slender and protected between Indian and Marrowstone islands. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Indian Island, in spite of its martial role, is also a rich nature conservation area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Marrowstone is a quiet residential island with Fort Flagler State Park<\/a> at its northern tip. It lends its particularly fitting name to another local oyster in our sights.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/DSC02297.jpeg?resize=740%2C529&ssl=1\")
<\/a>Clammers working the entrance to Kilisut Harbor<\/em> at low tide<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW06031.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW06013.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW06018.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\nHalfway down Marrowstone indents Mystery Bay, which name derives from prohibition smuggling. We find Marrowstone Island Shellfish and the Norland General Store, where large fresh oysters can be harvested from a cooler for a modest sum. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The bay and its businesses appear much as they did sixty years ago.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW06026.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li>![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW06024.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/a><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nFresh Grilled Marrowstone Oysters<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Gather oysters from a local source and keep on ice until the grill is very hot.
Meanwhile, prepare a dipping sauce of mayonnaise mixed with sufficient lemon juice and smoked paprika to make it exciting to the tongue. Warm your favorite bread. <\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW06050.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nPlace oysters on the grate, cupped-shell-side down and cover with a grill lid. Heat until the shells open (you will hear them popping, no need to peek), five or ten minutes depending on size. Remove from grill and snap off the top shell at the hinge, leaving the oyster and its juice in place. Drizzle with sauce and eat warm from the shell.
Note: Oyster shells do not open wide like clams or mussels. When popped they are ready to eat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/IMG_1055.jpeg?resize=740%2C987&ssl=1\")
Fresh grilled oysters served with sauce, pan de bono and local Marrowstone wine<\/em>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nBedfellows<\/strong><\/p>
Nearby in the channel <\/p>
Where the shark boats sleep,<\/p>
Lie the oysters awake <\/p>
All breathing the deep.
<\/p>Water over-washes both secret beasts.<\/p>
Some are for war,<\/p>
Others for feasts.<\/p>
<\/p>Poems from Puget Sound
Sen Yu, ed. 1988, University of Washington <\/cite><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW06035.jpeg?resize=740%2C494&ssl=1\")
Jupiter at anchor off Naval Magazine Indian Island<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
After passing Port Townsend in May, 1792, Captain George Vancouver proceeded to explore the first long inlet he espied, and anointed it “Hood’s Channel” in honor of Admiral Lord Samuel Hood. The Captain surveyed south with crews in two longboats far enough to confirm the fjord’s terminus. On charts he abbreviated the name to “Hood’s […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3429,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[6,7,22,10],"tags":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/jupitersway.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/07\/FGW06044.jpeg?fit=1280%2C721&ssl=1","jetpack-related-posts":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3378"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3378"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3378\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3429"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3378"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3378"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/jupitersway.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3378"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
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